Saturday, November 22, 2008

Dr Martens


1945: medical doctor Klaus Maertens injures his foot skiing in the Bavarian Alps. This incident went on to start an avalanche - a fashion avalanche that is.

Dr Martens, Docs, DMs - whatever you call them, have been closely linked to more musical movements and revolutions than any other item of fashion.

Mods worshipped their cherry reds, Goths just wanted black ones, Grebos drew all over theirs (guilty) and the pope just wanted something in the white.

Punks, psychobillys, skins, indie kids, grungers - the list is endless, they even made it on to the feet of Will Smith in the Fresh Prince of Bel Air for a couple of episodes. The success of DR Martens is a fashion phenomenon, but refreshingly, not one that was planned.

Bunch of air soles

After DR Klaus Maerten's experience on the piste, he had the idea of developing a shoe with an air cushioned sole to provide extra comfort for his sore foot. He hooked up with an old college friend DR Herbert Funck and they began to develop the idea further and before long the first heat-sealed air-cushioned sole was born.

By the late 50s the Dr.Marten shoe was selling well under the name of DR Maertens in Germany but the two doctors were keen to explore new markets and placed ads in trade magazines. One of which was spotted by Bill Griggs whose Northamptonshire based company: R Griggs & Co, were looking for something a bit different. The global rights to the air-cushioned sole were secured and the company set to work on developing a range of footwear to attach it to.

Features such as the yellow stitching and the pattern on the sole were designed and on 1st April 1960, the first pair of 1460s walked off the production line in Wollaston.

Why are they called 1460s? It's the date on which the first pair were produced: 1st 4th 1960.

Air guitar

The classic 1460s went on to decorate some of the most celebrated feet in the music industry and the world in general.

These include: Billy Bragg, Pete Townshend, Noddy Holder, Ian Dury, Joe Strummer, Buster Bloodvessel, the boys in Madness all had a pair, Robert Smith, Morrissey, PJ Harvey, Sinead O'Connor, Kurt Cobain, Damon Albarn, Rancid, a crack SAS team wore them in the Falklands War, The Pope as mentioned, and John Peel.

Songs in the key of Dm

In the 80s, Dr.Martens were immortalised in song. Forget your Kinky Boots and your boots that were made for walking; the Dr Marten range had arrived.

Ok, so it wasn't a real song, it was just Alexi Sale ranting around in a episode of The Young Ones - but it still counts!

Similarly, not many shoes have helped launch a separate fashion label. When Red Or Dead launched their assault on the fashion world, Wayne Hemmingway and his wife Geraldine customised Dr.Martens to sell on their market stall in Camden. The rest, as they say, is history.

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