Thursday, November 27, 2008

ADIDAS HISTORY

Adolf Dassler was inspired by a single idea when he made his first shoes in 1920, at the age of just 20. His vision was to provide every athlete with the best footwear for his respective discipline. It was this principle that guided him right up until his death in 1978. 700 patents and other industrial property rights worldwide are proof of his permanent quest for perfection.

His first shoe, made from the few materials available in the difficult post-war period, was produced from canvas. A passionate athlete himself, from the very beginning Adi Dassler was in close contact with sports participants and was always present in person at important sports events.

Adi Dassler focused his work on the classic disciplines of track and field. Athletes wore special shoes from his workshop for the first time at the 1928 Olympic Games in Amsterdam. In the mid 1920s he was already experimenting with spikes.

In the mid 1930s Adi Dassler was already making 30 different shoes for eleven sports, and he had a workforce of almost 100 employees. In less than two decades adidas advanced to become the world’s leading sports shoe manufacturer.

After the turmoil of the Second World War, Adi Dassler made a fresh start. In 1947, with 47 workers, he began putting into practice the knowledge gained from the pre-war period and also new ideas. Adi Dassler made the first post-war sports shoes using canvas and rubber from American fuel tanks. In 1948 he introduced adidas as the company name, a combination of his own first and last name. One year later he registered the - to this day - unmistakable Three Stripes.

The breakthrough came for Adi Dassler when Germany won the Soccer World Cup in 1954. In the legendary Final against Hungary, the German team wore boots with screw-in studs – by adidas.

Parallel to the rapid developments in sport, Adi Dassler strove to specialize and optimize his products. Adi Dassler was the first entrepreneur to use sports promotion in order to make the public aware of his innovations. He started using well-known athletes as advertising for his products. Many famous athletes such as Jesse Owens, Muhammad Ali, Max Schmeling, Sepp Herberger and Franz Beckenbauer counted themselves among the friends of the Dassler Family.

Aggressive publicity became one of the cornerstones of his corporate policy. From now on, Adi Dassler came up with a product innovation for every major event, documenting the superiority of adidas footwear. In constant contact with active athletes in a wide variety of disciplines, he developed the optimal shoe for almost every sport. Together with his son Horst, Adi Dassler created an international company that was, and still is, present at all the world’s sporting events.

From the mid 1960s, adidas also started producing apparel for competition and training. Ball production began in 1963, and ever since 1970 the Official Matchball at all major soccer events has been an adidas product.

Adi Dassler died in 1978, at the age of 78. Carrying on his heritage and his ideas, his name and his developments will continue to help athletes in their efforts to push the limits of performance, on into the new millennium.

Following the death of the company founder, Adi Dassler’s widow Käthe and his son Horst took charge of running the company. Horst Dassler perfected the opportunities offered by sports promotion. Under his guidance, adidas became a global leader in the sector of innovations in sports marketing. He was also responsible for establishing the brand in France. Horst Dassler died unexpectedly in 1987, at the early age of 51.

In 1989, adidas was transformed into a corporation (“Aktiengesellschaft”). At the beginning of the 1990s, after a difficult transition period, adidas returned to its roots and its original objective. Producing top products in top quality again became the company’s guiding principle. In 1991, adidas launched adidas EQUIPMENT, a line of performance-oriented, functional footwear and apparel.

With streetball in 1992, adidas started specifically addressing a younger target group. In 1993, Robert Louis-Dreyfus took over management of the company. The Frenchman initiated the comeback of the Three Stripes. In 1995, the adidas share was one of the most interesting new introductions on the stock market. In 1997, adidas AG and the Salomon group combined to form adidas-Salomon AG. Since 2001, Herbert Hainer has been leading the Group.

In October 2005, the Salomon business segment, including the related subsidiaries and brands Salomon, Mavic, Bonfire, Arc’Teryx and Cliché, was sold to the Finnish Amer Sports Corporation.

On January 31, 2006, Reebok International Ltd. was acquired providing the new adidas Group with a footprint of around €9.5 billion ($11.8 billion) in the global athletic footwear, apparel and hardware markets.

Monday, November 24, 2008

Clarks shoes

It began with a flash of inspiration. It was 1825 in the Somerset village of Street and James Clark was busy working at the tannery owned by his brother, Cyrus. Among the sheepskin rugs, the off-cuts and cast-offs were piling up when James had a brainwave: “Slippers!”. And the rest, as they say, is history. A few stitches and a few years later, the sheepskin slipper was born.

It was the very first Clarks shoe and the opening chapter in a remarkable story that continues to unfold to this day. In the decades that have passed since the young Mr. Clark’s eureka moment our shoes have seen social, political and economic revolution. They’ve seen fashions in footwear come and go, and come again – everything from court shoes and winklepickers to wedge heels, sandals and sneakers. They’ve tapped to the beat of crooners, rockers, Britpoppers and hip hoppers. They’ve walked, marched, strode and sashayed through an ever-changing world.

Our feet, meanwhile, have stayed firmly rooted in Street. It’s where Clarks started. It’s where our heart lies. And still, as always, we put that heart into every pair of our shoes to create stylish footwear that protects and cares for our customers’ feet.
Britain was perhaps at its greatest in the 1800s. Queen Victoria was on the throne from 1837 to just beyond the end of the century and reigned over a time of phenomenal economic, colonial and industrial growth. And while Charles Dickens gripped the nation with his storytelling skills, engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel got it moving via his remarkable tunnels, bridges, railway lines and steam ships.

For Cyrus and James Clark business was booming. Their sheepskin slipper, named the ‘Brown Petersburg’, was a huge success. Within years of its unveiling, its unique design graced feet the length and breadth of the country and by 1842 sales were averaging 1000 pairs a month.

The ‘Brown Petersburg’ was made by hand in Street. There were no factories, so the brothers – now trading as C&J Clark Limited – relied on outworkers to meet the growing demand. The workers collected the leather from the tannery, along with a pattern, took the whole lot home and turned it into slippers. Production was often a family affair – everyone did their bit of cutting, sticking and sewing. Then, every Friday, all the finished footwear would be taken to Cyrus and James and swapped for wages.

The system worked well for many years. The good people of Street were happy in their work and the company prospered. In fact business was so brisk that in 1851 the Clark brothers won two awards at the Great Exhibition, an event organised by Prince Albert to showcase the achievements of British industry.

Riding the storm

Then, in 1863, disaster. A recession hit business badly and, almost overnight, the Clarks needed help. Lifelong Quakers themselves, they turned to contacts in the Quaker community for financial support and managed to secure a loan. But it came with conditions: James and Cyrus were to step down and William – James’ youngest son – was to take the reins.

It was another turning point in the company’s fortunes. Something of a visionary, William modernised the manufacturing process by bringing in the factory system and investing in the Singer sewing machine – a groundbreaking piece of technology at the time. Under his watchful eye, C&J Clark was revitalised, the loan was paid back in full and the company continued to move forward with developments like the Hygienic range. Launched in 1883, it was the first ever shoe designed to fit the shape of the foot; an innovation that is still the bedrock of Clarks’ reputation.

Whilst developing the commercial side of the business, William remained true to the ideals of his Quaker roots. He invested in the community, looked after his workers and built them homes – many of which can still be seen in Street today.
What the latter days of the 19th Century had started, the new millennium carried on with a passion. Science and technology were the watchwords. Inventions came thick and fast and included everything from the telephone and the zip to assembly line automobiles. Meanwhile, mass production and inexpensive alternatives to fabrics like silk meant a nation increasingly interested in fashion could finally afford to indulge itself.

With John, Roger and Alice Clark now running the company, Clarks continued to expand. Emerging from the buttoned-up days of the Victorian era, women in particular were a major new consumer. The female ankle was suddenly on display and shoes that showed them at their best were a must-have for every elegant lady of the time. C&J Clark was happy to oblige.

Spreading the word

With more and more product to promote, Clarks began advertising – our first press ad appeared in 1936. We opened our own chain of shops called Peter Lord, a name which remained on the high street until the 1990s. We also introduced a choice of width fittings to our children’s range, not forgetting the first ever Clarks foot gauge – two innovations which became a benchmark in the care of growing feet.

Before the 1900s were even half over, the world was plunged into two terrible wars. British industry stepped up to play its part in the war effort and during the Second World War the main Clarks factory was used to make torpedoes. On the home-front, meanwhile, the global conflict led to all sorts of shortages; raw materials became scarce, testing the ingenuity of manufacturers determined to meet the demand for everyday essentials. Clarks, for example, designed a unique, hinged wooden sole, so we could carry on supplying the nation with shoes even when leather was hard to come by.
As the world emerged from the dark days of war, the next four decades saw change beyond the wildest dreams of many. What began with a baby boom, rock ‘n’ roll, teenagers, television and sputniks boldly going into outer space would end with mobile phones, the music video, Live Aid and an obsession with working out at the gym.

For C&J Clark the end of the 1940s ushered in a period of rapid growth. The available workforce in Street was too small to meet demand so, under the guidance of chairman Bancroft Clark, the company opened 15 new factories in neighbouring towns and cities. New shops and stores were also opened, including, in 1957, Clarks’ first flagship store on London’s Regent Street.

In the decades to come, expansion at home and abroad, increased production and the introduction of new materials like polyurethane and trademark technologies like Active Air all helped Clarks become the world’s best-known name in footwear. There were innovative styles too. The Desert Boot for example, brainchild of Nathan Clark, made its debut in 1950, captured the imagination of millions and remaining a global icon to this day.
As the 90s became the noughties, the computer revolution that had started two decades earlier with the invention of the microprocessor continued to transform work and play. And it still does, with the worldwide web, uploading, downloading and emailing all very much a part of almost everyone’s daily routine.

The dawn of the 1990s found Clarks facing some tough decisions. Major changes in world trade meant the company could no longer stay competitive while manufacturing in the UK. Reluctantly, production was moved to the continent. We began in a small way in Portugal, but it wasn’t enough. In the end, we had little choice but to close our UK factory doors and move the entire production process overseas.

It was a change of location but our high standards remained, and remain to this day, the same. Overseas modern factories, many of them purpose-built for Clarks, are audited either by independent auditors or our own on-site teams in order to monitor conditions and promote the best working practices.

The decision to move overseas wasn’t taken lightly. However, coupled with our continuing commitment to quality, new marketing and ad campaigns – including ‘Act your shoe size, not your age’ and the current ‘Enjoy Every Step’ – plus a rebranding in the high street, it has helped us return to the success of the good old days.
Into the future

We’re pleased to say that things are still going well. New technology, state-of the-art facilities and our love of shoes means we’re not only the number one shoe brand in the UK. With continuing growth in North America, Western and Eastern Europe, India and China, we’re also the world’s largest casual and smart shoe company and the fourth largest footwear company on the planet.

We’ve come a long way since Cyrus and James Clark and the ‘Brown Petersburg’. But their vision and passion live on in our shoes. You could say we’re following in their footsteps.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Dr Martens


1945: medical doctor Klaus Maertens injures his foot skiing in the Bavarian Alps. This incident went on to start an avalanche - a fashion avalanche that is.

Dr Martens, Docs, DMs - whatever you call them, have been closely linked to more musical movements and revolutions than any other item of fashion.

Mods worshipped their cherry reds, Goths just wanted black ones, Grebos drew all over theirs (guilty) and the pope just wanted something in the white.

Punks, psychobillys, skins, indie kids, grungers - the list is endless, they even made it on to the feet of Will Smith in the Fresh Prince of Bel Air for a couple of episodes. The success of DR Martens is a fashion phenomenon, but refreshingly, not one that was planned.

Bunch of air soles

After DR Klaus Maerten's experience on the piste, he had the idea of developing a shoe with an air cushioned sole to provide extra comfort for his sore foot. He hooked up with an old college friend DR Herbert Funck and they began to develop the idea further and before long the first heat-sealed air-cushioned sole was born.

By the late 50s the Dr.Marten shoe was selling well under the name of DR Maertens in Germany but the two doctors were keen to explore new markets and placed ads in trade magazines. One of which was spotted by Bill Griggs whose Northamptonshire based company: R Griggs & Co, were looking for something a bit different. The global rights to the air-cushioned sole were secured and the company set to work on developing a range of footwear to attach it to.

Features such as the yellow stitching and the pattern on the sole were designed and on 1st April 1960, the first pair of 1460s walked off the production line in Wollaston.

Why are they called 1460s? It's the date on which the first pair were produced: 1st 4th 1960.

Air guitar

The classic 1460s went on to decorate some of the most celebrated feet in the music industry and the world in general.

These include: Billy Bragg, Pete Townshend, Noddy Holder, Ian Dury, Joe Strummer, Buster Bloodvessel, the boys in Madness all had a pair, Robert Smith, Morrissey, PJ Harvey, Sinead O'Connor, Kurt Cobain, Damon Albarn, Rancid, a crack SAS team wore them in the Falklands War, The Pope as mentioned, and John Peel.

Songs in the key of Dm

In the 80s, Dr.Martens were immortalised in song. Forget your Kinky Boots and your boots that were made for walking; the Dr Marten range had arrived.

Ok, so it wasn't a real song, it was just Alexi Sale ranting around in a episode of The Young Ones - but it still counts!

Similarly, not many shoes have helped launch a separate fashion label. When Red Or Dead launched their assault on the fashion world, Wayne Hemmingway and his wife Geraldine customised Dr.Martens to sell on their market stall in Camden. The rest, as they say, is history.

Friday, November 21, 2008

Chuck Taylor All Stars

converse logoChuck Taylor All-Stars, or Converse All-Stars, also referred to as "Chucks" or "Connies" are canvas and rubber shoes produced by Converse. They were first produced in 1917 as the "All-Star," Converse's attempt to capture the basketball shoe market. They were not particularly popular until basketball player Chuck Taylor adopted them as his preferred shoe. He was impressed with the design so he became the shoe's leading salesman. After proposing a few changes to the shoe, the shoe got its current name and Chuck Taylor's signature on its ankle patch. Although classic black is the most popular, Chuck Taylor was himself known to prefer unbleached white high-tops (known in his day as simply "white").

Consumers demanded more variety from the shoe - particularly with respect to colors in order to match basketball teams - so colored and patterned shoelaces became popular to complement the two colors, black and white, available before 1966. Afterwards, more colors and styles became available. Low-top or "Oxford", high-top, and later knee-high, versions were produced. More materials were offered for the construction, including leather, suede, vinyl, denim, and hemp. Some versions of the shoe were offered without laces, held up instead by elastic. These new versions of the shoe were also co-designed by Chuck Taylor, just before his death in 1969.

A full biography of Chuck Taylor was published by Indiana University Press in March 2006 under the title Chuck Taylor, All Star: The True Story of the Man Behind the Most Famous Athletic Shoe in History, with a foreword by the retired college basketball coach Dean Smith.

When Converse was bought by Nike and operations were moved from the United States to overseas, the design saw a few alterations. The fabric is no longer 2-ply cotton canvas but 1-ply "textile" and many wearers have noticed different patterns of wear.

The shoes are available in several core colors, seasonal colors, and a variety of print styles. In the 1950s the shoes became popular within the greaser subculture and amongst many fans of rockabilly. Fans of punk rock have adopted the shoe as a fashion trend since the late 1970s and many popular punk rock bands, such as the Ramones, have supported the trend by wearing the sneakers. All-Stars became popular again in the '90s grunge culture, especially in the early '90s days of G-funk. There has been a recent re-adoption of them in modern emo and "gangsta" fashion. They have appeared in numerous films and videogames, as well as TV shows and commercials.

Popularity
converse, sneakers, kedsDespite the major setbacks for Converse in recent times[citation needed], the Converse Chuck Taylor All-Star is the most successful shoe in history, and has enjoyed recent popularity thanks to a resurgence of old school trends. By the turn of the 21st century, over 750 million pairs had been sold worldwide. They no longer seem to be worn by their original target market of basketball players (at least not in the professional sphere) who have moved on to more modern shoes, but instead they are now marketed to the mainstream teenager. Some are so enthusiastic about the sneakers that they have a vast, ever-growing collection.

Since the turn of the century, particularly since 2005, Converse sneakers have become increasingly popular, with a growing market. Originally seen as being worn by those in the rock music scene, the market is growing with various, younger scenes, some based on a sub-culture; the Chuck Taylors are also becoming more popular with the pop music scene and fashion in general. Many Chuck Taylor owners are those who have owned the shoes in the past, and most own more than one pair, as recently many more colors are now produced than before. One other place in which the shoe is quite popular is in the sport of powerlifting, where the flat soles of the shoe make for a more stable base than normal styles of sneakers whose heel is usually thicker than the toe of the shoe, and which often have cushioning that absorbs and therefore wastes some of the force exerted to move the weight. Many powerlifters state the lack of elevation in the heel provides better support during squats and deadlifts. Moreover, the lack of elevation reduces the range of motion during the deadlift, often allowing more weight to be lifted by shortening the distance the barbell must be moved.

Chuck Taylors and fashion


Chuck Taylors saw another upswing in popularity in the early 1990s. Some may attribute this growing trend to a higher awareness of such fashions as grunge -- an outgrowth of some of the same rock-oriented youth cultures that have kept an affinity for the shoes since (at least) the late '70s/early '80s punk and new wave eras.

The recent increases in numbers of colors may also have led to the market for Chuck Taylors growing, due to various owner- or factory-based customizations of the shoe through color, use of stylized shoelaces, and through drawing or writing on the rubberized parts. The customization of Chuck Taylors is highly popular with the rock scene, especially, but not limited to, teenage girls, with many drawing/writing on the shoes, putting mismatching laces in the shoes, or wearing odd shoes (often two differently colored Chuck Taylors) -- all styles fairly common among wearers of the shoes over the past three decades. However, the original trend of wearing the low-rise shoes (in white) and writing on the rubberized part can be traced back to early as 1972, with the height of the fashion amongst junior high school girls being between 1973-1975. In addition to writing on the shoes, young girls in some areas also interlaced ordinary jingle bells onto the laces, making jingling sounds whenever they walked down the corridors of their local junior high schools.

Although Chuck Taylors are, along with Dr. Martens, still closely associated with punk fashion, punks have been the target of criticism for wearing a shoe that is ultimately manufactured by Nike, a company that has been accused of producing their shoes in third-world "sweatshops" (since 1998). Because of Nike's alleged practices, some see wearing Converse shoes as being at odds with punk's general association with left-wing politics, particularly anarchism and some forms of revolutionary socialism. Many punks now wear sweatshop-free imitations, such as those made by the Blackspot Anticorporation or No Sweat Apparel, so as to avoid such an ideological conflict. One can recognize a pair of pre-Nike era All-Stars by the "Made in U.S.A."-marking found in the heels of the American made All-Stars, but this part of the heel patch usually wears out somewhat quickly.

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